James Leith

Court, non-residents were only allowed access to the four ‘public’ beaches as the guest of a resident.Ask any non-African what ‘safari’ means and they will almost certainly say that it has something to do with looking at wildlife, probably through the windows of a Land Rover. It doesn’t. Safari is a Swahili word meaning ‘a journey’, which in turn derives from the Farsi safara, meaning ‘travel’. If you’re ‘on safari’, you’re ‘incommunicado’ or, probably closest of all, ‘gone walkabout’. And if this is what you long for in a holiday — to disappear into the wilderness — few places on earth will meet your requirements better than a tiny Maasai lodge set in 60,000 acres of northern Kenya looking out over hundreds of miles of Africa towards Samburu and the sunrise.