Wine Club: six wonderful wines from Mr Wheeler

The first red wine I ever drank was a scrumptiously succulent Beaujolais, and I’ve had a fondness for the region and its wines ever since.

At 52, my father was getting on a bit when I was born and he was desperate to educate me in the delights of the grape as quickly as possible. I was weaned on Cyprus ‘sherry’ and was no more than ten when I enjoyed my first glass of enticingly sweet and fizzy Asti Spumante. Light, refreshing, low-alcohol German Riesling followed, and by the time I was off to senior school, I had graduated – at my father’s behest – to soft, juicy, jammy Beaujolais. Once I was 16 I’d mastered the Tequila Sunrise and the Harvey Wallbanger, too, but that’s another – rather messy – story.

At its best, fine Beaujolais is approachable in a way that fine Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhône are not. It’s the juiciness, the jamminess, the luscious fruit and the comparative lack of tannin. Indeed, Pa always insisted that Beaujolais was a wine to be gulped rather than sipped.

Yes, yes, I know such parental encouragement was irresponsible, but times were different then and my father was adamant that vino was better-tasting and better for one than either Coke or Tizer. Anyway, Beaujolais retains a special place in my vinous affections and I’m delighted to introduce this excellent selection from Maison Jean Loron, courtesy of Mr Wheeler.

The 2020 Ch. Bellevue Beaujolais Blanc ‘Princesse Lieven’ (1) is that rarity, white Beaujolais. Made, of course, from Chardonnay and with just a touch of oak, it’s soft, buttery and restrained with hints of citrus, honey and herbs. It’s a marvellous, great-value alternative to better-known white burgundies. Oh, by the way, if you’re ever down that way and need a bed, the chateau boasts a fine hotel. £14.95 down from £16.45.

The 2020 Rift 69 Beaujolais-Villages (2) is wonderfully drinkable and ideal for those who sometimes struggle with the after-effects of red wine, since it’s made and bottled without any sulphites. It’s a cracker for the price, crammed with luscious blueberries, blackberries and cherries backed with a dusting of spice. It’s beautifully textured, too, and I loved it. £12.45 down from £13.95.

The 2020 Brouilly, Ch. de la Pierrre (3) is produced in a small, high-tech winery set within the 12th-century Château de la Pierre. The Gamay vines that surround the property are up to 60 years old and although the wine is delicate and fresh, the plum, blackcurrant and damson notes are deliciously concentrated and intense. £14.45 down from £15.95.

The 2019 Juliénas, Domaine de la Vieille Église (4), from the north-western edge of Beaujolais, is so-named because it’s produced in the old church of Juliénas, now decommissioned and serving as a visitor centre when not needed at harvest time. With morello cherries and raspberries to the fore and with fine acidity and freshness, this is deeply rewarding Beaujolais. £14.45 down from £15.95.

The 2020 Saint-Amour, Domaine des Billards (5) with its cheeky cherub on the label, is perhaps my favourite of all these wines. Produced in a traditional winery but one dedicated to experimentation (they’re currently trialling concrete eggs), it’s generous and full with rich, ripe red fruit and a whisper of dark chocolate on the finish. This is what fine Beaujolais is all about. £14.95 down from £16.45.

Finally, the 2020 Fleurie, Ch. de Fleurie (6) from one of Maison Jean Loron’s flagship estates. Blessed with the fresh fruitiness that is the Loron hallmark, this wine spent nine months in old oak and has a touch more tannin than the others and so it will age well, turning more Burgundian in style as it does so. I love it as it is, but would be fascinated to see how it evolves. £15.25 down from £16.95.

The mixed case has two bottles each of wine and delivery, as ever, is free.

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