Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: six of the finest Provençal rosés – and a Platinum Jubilee special

Wine Club: six of the finest Provençal rosés – and a Platinum Jubilee special
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I don’t know how well you know Amsterdam, but there’s a frightfully swanky hotel there called The Dylan in which I was lucky enough to blag myself and Mrs Ray a jolly weekend a year or so ago.

There are many fine things about The Dylan but that which tickles me the most is their tradition of High Wine, the hotel’s delightfully decadent version of High Tea, served mid to late afternoon and comprising four different amuses-bouches elegantly laid out alongside four cleverly matched glasses of wine.

I’ve never been one for non-alcoholic hot drinks at elevenses, much preferring alcoholic cold ones at what Mrs R and I term sevenses, so The Dylan’s tradition chimes perfectly with ours. This wonderful Dutch innovation came rushing to mind yesterday (rather nearer half past fiveses, if I’m honest, for once Marina gets a thirst there’s absolutely no stopping her) when we got stuck into this clutch of very tasty Provençal rosés courtesy of FromVineyardsDirect. We nibbled on morsels of smoked salmon, salami, cheese and olives as we quaffed and we reminisced dreamily of The Dylan. The sun was warm, the vino cold and, well, we felt pretty chipper.

There’s just something about perfectly chilled fine rosé – and there are no finer rosés than those from Provence – that says, yes, you are on holiday and no, you do not have a care in the world. I trust these carefully curated Provençal bottles will say the same to you.

The 2021 Nautic (1) from the Sumeire family – who can trace their presence in Trets, Provence, back to 1238 – is a half and half blend of Cinsault and Grenache. A pale, pale pink, it’s light, fresh, creamy, dry and perfect for everyday quaffing. £9.25 down from £9.95.

The 2021 Horizon (2) is from the Negrel family, producers of Provençal wine since 1813. A blend of Syrah and Grenache, it is also a ghostly pale pink and full of crushed wild strawberries complete with a faint, refreshing prickle before it finishes perfectly dry. £9.95 down from £10.95.

The 2020 Les Jardiniers (3), a similar blend of Syrah and Grenache, comes from Cucugnan, a remote corner of the mountains of Corbières, and the hands of Alexander Sichel, scion of the fabled family behind Chx. Angludet, Palmer and the like. Light, fruity and succulent it, too, is refreshingly dry on the finish. £10.75 down from £11.95.

The 2021 La Croix du Prieur (4), from the aforementioned Sumeires, is made from Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah and spends so little time on the skins that it’s almost white in the glass. Citrus-fresh and herbal, it has a touch of peppery spice on the finish. £12.75 down from £13.95.

The 2021 Mas de Cadenet (5) is the Negrels’ flagship vino from the foothills of the Montagne Sainte-Victoire and – guess what? – is a blend of Grenache and Syrah. With sweetish, ripe berry fruit in the mouth, it’s enjoyably dry and spicy and slips down a treat. £13.75 down from £14.95.

The Sumeires’ 2021 Château L’Afrique (6), the prettiest of pinks, is made from Grenache, Syrah and (white) Rolle and has wild flowers and heady herbs on the nose and fresh, lively orchard fruit on the palate. £16.00 down from £17.95.

Finally, as a treat for lovers of Sacha Lichine’s Whispering Angel, we’ve a six-bottle box of the 2021 Whispering Angel Platinum Jubilee Limited Edition (7), the official rosé of the forthcoming Jubilee Pageant and the perfect bottle with which to toast HM the Q’s magnificent achievement this June. WA is, of course, widely available, but FVD’s Esme Johnstone assures me that this specially-labelled version is on allocation only and that our price is as keen as any. It’s hugely popular for a reason: it’s extremely well-made and very drinkable. £111 per six bottles (limited to 24 bottles per reader).

The mixed case has two bottles each of wines 1-6 and delivery, as ever, is free.

Order today.

Written byJonathan Ray

Jonathan Ray is the Spectator's wine editor.

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