Wine Club: six Honest Grapes picks at no more than £13.50 a bottle

It’s a tough job tasting wines for the Spectator Wine Club but one that I selflessly shoulder on your behalf. Occasionally, though, as on this occasion, I ask my nearest and dearest to help me.

Mrs Ray is a unifying presence and approached the dozen or so bottles from Honest Grapes with her usual integrity, professionalism and accountability. My eldest son, Ferdy, withdrew as he believed it was ‘the right thing to do’ (he’s teetotal). My youngest son, Ludo (who’s anything but), was keen but overslept. ‘I believe I have much to offer,’ he texted from under his duvet, ‘but I am afraid that this is simply not the right time.’

Mrs R and I pressed on alone in the interests of continuity and stability and, keen for borrowing costs to fall, we ensured that our picks cost no more than £13.50 a bottle.

The 2021 Le Chapeau Noir Sauvignon Blanc (1) is a curiosity: a Sauvignon Blanc produced in the south of France by a Dutchman trained in Burgundy – Floris Lemstra, owner/winemaker at Ch. Canet. Floris and the boys at Honest Grapes were far from certain how this experiment would turn out but, goodness, they’ve cracked it. Zestily fresh, crisp and dry with gooseberry, grass and nettles, it’s simple and undemanding, a charming quaffing wine with a bone-dry finish. £10 down from £11.

The 2019 Maison Darragon ‘Les Tuffes’ Vouvray Sec (2) comes from near Tours in the Loire Valley. The Darragon/Charbonnier families have made wine here for nine generations (since 1698 in fact) and are experts in the cultivation of Chenin Blanc. This, from 30-year-old vines, is spot on, with fresh and creamy baked apple and hints of zingy citrus. Having enjoyed it hugely on its own, we finished it off with some creamy mushroom risotto and loved it. £13.50 down from £14.50.

The 2021 Domaine de Viranel Viognier (3) produced by brothers Arnaud and Nicolas Bergasse at Ch. Viranel in the Languedoc-Roussillon’s oldest winemaking area of St-Chinian, also completely charmed our electorate of two. The estate has been in the family’s hands since 1551 and the wine is produced from handpicked grapes grown on its ancient limestone terraced hills. With citrus, peach and apricot, its aromas are seductively inviting and the fresh, juicy fruit and slightly salty finish begs another sip/gulp. £13.50 down from £14.50.

The 2020 Horgelus Rouge de Gala (4), from d’Artagnan’s glorious Gascony, is as an appealing entry-level red as I’ve had in ages. Produced by Yoan le Menn (who also makes a mean Armagnac, if you’re interested) at the estate founded by his father 45 years ago, it’s an almost equal blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and local Tannat. It’s wonderfully drinkable with lusciously fresh, ripe, bramble/-blackcurrant fruit and touches of herbs and spice. It is so mouth-watering and come-hither that all you want to do is drain the glass. £10 down from £11.

The 2021 Ch. St Roch Côtes du Rhône (5) is produced by Yves Brunel in and around Lirac in the southern Rhône. A blend of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault, it’s really a declassified Lirac with the addition of some well-crafted Côtes du Rhône. We both lapped it up, so succulent, spicy and enticing is it. £12 down from £13.

Finally, if you like Argentinean Malbec, you’ll love the 2018 Ch. de Flore (6), a 100 per cent Malbec from the grape’s original heartland in Cahors, south-west France. There’s that typical deep-red/black colour, whiff of violets and rich, profound dark fruit in the mouth. But there’s a lightness of touch too – learned from the winemakers of Mendoza, where freshness is everything – and where once there would have been chewy tannins, they’re now silky smooth and enticing. It’s a great glass of wine and a great price too. £13 down from £14.

The mixed case has two bottles of each wine and delivery, as ever, is free.

Order today.