Jonathan Ray
Wine Club: six gems all enticingly priced at under £12
We’re just back from a quick flit to Italy and a wild and wonderful wedding. It was all huge fun, although as I look back with throbbing, bloodshot eyes, I see, of course, that we could have done things differently, not to say better, such as by pacing ourselves more sensibly and staying off the grappa.
It was arriving late that threw us (thanks easyJet) and the resultant determination to hit the ground running and prove our worth. The inevitable upshot is a distinct liverishness today. At least I’m not as frail as Mrs Ray, who sat pale, monosyllabic and remorseful next to me on the flight home. She had raced out of the traps way before the gun and by the time I lassoed her by the dance floor she had already moved through fizz, white and red to her second pitcher of mojito because ‘the first one didn’t work’. Bless her.
We had a hoot, though, and before the wheels came off agreed that there were few finer things than sitting with old friends and new in the scorching Tuscan sun, downing ice-cold glasses of Pinot Grigio. Indeed, I fell in love all over again with the white wines of Italy and so it is that this offer from our chums at FromVineyardsDirect starts with a trio of pregiati vini bianchi Italiani. The cost of living being what it is, all three are enticingly priced at under £12, as are the three accompanying French reds.
The 2020 Falanghina del Sannio, Fremondo (1), from the much-lauded 60-year-old La Guardiense cooperative north of Naples, is an excellent example of this increasingly popular grape. Lemony, peachy and slightly salty, it’s fresh, crisp and dry and makes a perfect start to any summer evening. £8.75 down from £9.45.
The 2020 Boira’ Pinot Grigio (2) is an old favourite and a regular in these pages. Indeed, when we offered the two previous vintages, we promptly sold out of both. The antithesis of rubbish wine-bar PG, it’s made from organically farmed, low-yielding vines in the Veneto. It spends a short time in oak and is dry to off-dry, fresh, honeyed, herbal and extremely potable. £9.95 down from £10.95.
The 2020 Miopasso Appassimento Grillo (3) from Sicily is brand new to FVD’s list and a delightful vinous curiosity. Created from 100 per cent Grillo, it’s made in the appassimento style – that’s to say, with a proportion of semi-dried grapes. With fine acidity, it has depth, character and concentration alongside hints of preserved citrus, apricots, nuts and herbs. It’s both quirky and quaff-able. £10.95 down from £11.95.
The 2020 Racine Pinot Noir (4) from Nos Vins du Sud – the Languedocian collaboration between Burgundian Bruno Lafon and Bordelais François Chamboissier – comes from high-altitude vineyards between the Pyrenees and the Montagne Noire and is light, fresh, succulent and savoury. It doesn’t have the complexity of Burgundy but nor does it have the price tag, being made to be knocked back and enjoyed, un vrai vin de comptoir. £10.95 down from £11.95.
The 2019 Altura 350 (5), from the wine-making royalty that is Alexander Sichel (grandson of mighty Peter), is a Grenache, Syrah and Carignan blend from vineyards 350m high (hence its name) in the Vallée de Cucugnan in Corbières. With dark, intense briary fruit, a touch of pepper and spice and a long, concentrated finish, it should be a shoo-in for your next barbecue. £10.95 down from £11.95.
Finally, the 2019 Ch. Saint Jean, Plan de Dieu (6) – the best Côtes du Rhône Villages on the market, reckons FVD’s Esme Johnstone. When we offered the previous vintage in January it sold out immediately. Produced by Christian Meffre of Gigondas fame, its old vine fruit is rich, ripe, dark, spicy and juicy. It’s ready – just – and will only get better. £11.95 down from £12.95.
The mixed case has two bottles each of wine and delivery, as ever, is free.