Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: incredibly tasty, ridiculously good value wines from Domaine du Grand Mayne

Wine Club: incredibly tasty, ridiculously good value wines from Domaine du Grand Mayne
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Order today and use the discount code SPECJULY at the checkout.

So, I finally got the plague. No, not monkeypox, the other one – Covid. I blame that Tuscan wedding. Not the hot’n’sweaty event itself, nor the jam-packed flights there and back; no, I blame the three subsequent days on the wagon, strictly enforced by Mrs Ray to prove that we’re not complete and utter lushes and can, on occasion, do without.

Well, as any fule kno, Muscadet keeps the doctor away and water won’t. Thus it is that I’m still testing positive after 14 days. Sigh. But I’m back on the vino now and feel much better for it, thank you, the associated vitamins and antioxidants putting a distinct spring in my step.

The first wines to aid my recovery were these little gems from Domaine du Grand Mayne in the Côtes de Duras, sampled – thanks to Zoom – in the company of wine-maker Mathieu Crosnier.

As you know, the Côtes de Duras is near Bordeaux, between Saint-Emilion and Bergerac, and focuses on similar grape varieties and enjoys a similar climate. The wines were once much prized – Francis I was praising the ‘nectar’ of Duras in the 16th century – and it boasts one of France’s oldest ACs, granted in 1937.

Domaine du GM was founded by wine importer Andrew Gordon in 1985, and now, with a clear understanding of terroir and a focus on sustainable agriculture, it is firmly in the pink, producing incredibly tasty, ridiculously good-value wines and leading the way with wine tourism too.

The 2021 Grand Mayne Sauvignon Blanc (1) is exhilaratingly fresh. A blend of Sauvignon Blanc grapes picked at different times, from different soils with different expositions, it’s delightfully complex. A tiny splash of Sémillon adds floral notes, length and texture. It’s fruity yet dry, about halfway between the Loire Valley and Marlborough in style. £10.76 down from £11.96.

The 2019 Grand Mayne Réserve Sauvignon/Sémillon (2) is very classy. Fermented in barrel and aged in wood for seven months, it has weight and, again thanks to Sémillon, it has texture. Despite an invigoratingly tart gooseberry/citrus sweetness, it finishes perfectly dry and, with its rounded, creamy texture, it’s a Sauvignon Blanc for those who don’t like Sauvignon Blanc. £15.77 down from £17.52.

The 2021 Grand Mayne Rosé (3) gives Provençal pinks a run for their money. For the first time, the regular blend of Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot has an additional wallop of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon for freshness and acidity. There’s no loss of colour, though, nor loss of the wild strawberry notes. Time on the lees adds weight and it’s bang on. £10.76 down from £11.96.

The 2018 Grand Mayne Merlot/Cabernet (4) and the 2019 Grand Mayne Merlot/Cabernet (5) make a fascinating comparison. The blends are identical (80 per cent Merlot with 15 per cent CS and 5 per cent CF) and both are matured for 18 months in stainless steel. The 2018 is fresh, fruity, juicy, jammy and extremely approachable. It’s also quite light and I’d favour chilling it. The 2019 has greater weight and length; it’s a touch spicier and with more of a savoury finish. Both are crazily good value. £10.76 down from £11.96.

Finally, the 2019 Grand Mayne Réserve Merlot/Cabernet (6), the estate’s flagship wine blended from 50 per cent Cab Sauv, 40 per cent Merlot and 10 per cent Cab Franc. 2019 was a magnificent vintage with rain, wind and sun exactly when wanted. Indeed, so perfect was the fruit that all they had to do was pick it at the right time. It has great depth of flavour – all red and dark berries and a touch of spice – and is exquisitely balanced. Matt reckons it’s the best ever vintage of this wine and it’s hard to disagree. £15.77 down from £17.52.

These brilliantly priced wines are available in boxes of six and the mixed case has one bottle of each wine. Delivery is free for orders of 12 bottles or more.

Order today and use the discount code SPECJULY at the checkout.

Written byJonathan Ray

Jonathan Ray is the Spectator's wine editor.

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