Jonathan Ray
Wine Club: gems from Swig to satisfy the most demanding of thirsts
There are some typically quirky gems from Swig on offer this week and it’s great to have Robin Davis and the gang back in these pages. Their offer in January was a rip-roarer and, as before, there is plenty here to satisfy even the most demanding of thirsts.
The 2020 Bourgogne Chardonnay Les Truffières, Domaine de Mauperthuis (1) is a Chablis in all but name and price, produced in Auxerre on south-facing Kimmeridgian soils that could easily pass for those of Montée de Tonnerre. Matured for 12 months in stainless steel, it’s crisp, clean and pure, taking its time to unfold gently in the glass and reveal its lightly honeyed floral notes. £14.50 down from £17.50.
The 2021 Blank Bottle Moment of Silence (2), from the bonkers genius that is Pieter Walser, is a cracker. Produced in Wellington, South Africa, it’s a blend of three white grape varieties the names of which the label (and I) won’t reveal since PW reckons one should approach his wines with an open mind, uncluttered with preconceptions (hence Blank Bottle). I loved its rounded peachiness, its touch of cream and its honeysuckle notes. Heck, I loved everything about it and trust you’ll play the game and not google its components until you’ve tasted it. £16.50 down from £19.50.
The 2021 Le Grand Cros GC Rosé (3), from the foothills of the Massif des Maures, is that rarity: a Provencal rosé of character and quality at a sensible price. A blend of seven different grape varieties (mainly Grenache), it’s delightfully complex with wild strawberries, herbs and a hint of exotic spice. Dry on the finish, it’s thirst-quenchingly refreshing and makes me wonder why on earth I spend half as much again on rosés only half as good. £12.95 down from £15.95.
If you like fully mature, oak-aged Spanish Tempranillo then you’ll find the 2010 Valsardo (4) from Ribera del Duero a complete steal. Indeed, Swig reckon they hit the jackpot with it, part of a small parcel that Bodegas Valsardo, a longstanding supplier, sold them at a knockdown price in order to clear the decks. Full of soft mellow prunes, dried figs and raisins, vanilla and tobacco, it’s not one to keep but one to knock back right now. It used to sell at around £20 a pop and is the perfect bin-end. £10 down from £13.
The 2019 Cabal Vineyards Pinot Noir (5) from North Canterbury, NZ, is only the estate’s fourth vintage and shows just how far they’ve come. Densely coloured and headily scented, it’s richly flavoured with ripe plums, blackberries and damsons, with plenty of savoury notes on the finish. It’s a hearty Pinot for sure and deeply satisfying. £22.00 down from £25.00.
The 2019 Yantra, Tenuta Sette Cieli (6) is an impeccable Merlot/Cabernet blend from vineyards which lie bang next door to those which produce the mighty Masseto and Sassicaia of Bolgheri. The estate, known for its Scipio and Indaco wines, has a devoted following and this is the most approachable of all the range, with fresh, lively red and dark fruit and a long, juicy, slightly savoury finish. £19 down from £22.
Finally, the Champagne Moutardier Carte d’Or NV (7), a fabulous fizz hitherto unknown to me that seduced me in a trice. A Pinot Meunier-based blend with small amounts of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, it’s largely from 2016, bolstered by reserve wines. It spent six years on the lees and is toasty yet fresh with cooked apple and zesty citrus too. £26.95 down from £29.95.
The above wines are offered in unmixed boxes of six or in mixed cases of 6 or 12 containing one/two bottles of each wine except the champagne. Delivery is free for orders over £90 and anyone spending £155 or more gets a free bottle of the aforementioned fizz.