Jonathan Ray

Wine Club: a super September septet from Honest Grapes

Wine Club: a super September septet from Honest Grapes
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We live in sad, uncertain times and without for a minute suggesting that we should take solace in alcohol, I’ve, erm, taken solace in alcohol. I simply couldn’t help it thanks to the tastiest of bottles from Honest Grapes. I drained each and every one as I narrowed them down to a super September septet, crowned by a fabulous English fizz, ideal for marking the passing of our Queen and the succession of our King. Vivat rex!

The 2020 Nadine Ferrand Mâcon Blanc (1) is an exemplary white Burgundy produced by Nadine Ferrand and her daughter Marine at their 11-hectare Pouilly Fuissé domaine. Herbal, honeyed and apple-fresh, it’s as easy-going and approachable as they come and the perfect example of what the Ferrands themselves refer to as Chardonnay with a feminine touch. £16.20 down from £18.

Also in Burgundy, the 2019 Edouard Delaunay Bourgogne Aligoté (2) was a complete surprise. I had no idea that Aligoté could be so damn tasty. Burgundy’s unsung grape was once notorious for making wines so acidic and unpalatable that the only way to drink them was as a so-called Kir, with the addition of a liberal slurp of cassis. But here, in the hands of this venerable but recently revamped estate, Aligoté positively sings. Fermented in old oak, with time on the lees, it’s soft and creamy with white stone fruit and fine acidity and is completely delicious. £18.90 down from £21.

The 2021 Antinori Bramìto della Sala Chardonnay (3) has impeccable provenance, the Antinori family having made wine for more than 600 years. A part oak-fermented, part steel-fermented Chardonnay from Castello della Sala in Umbria, not far from Orvieto, it’s fresh, clean, lively and full of lemony apple notes. It’s understated and classy and cheap for the price. £20.46 down from £22.

The 2021 L’Ostal Rosé (4) also has a stellar name attached, in this instance that of Famille J-M Cazes, owners of Ch. Lynch-Bages. A half-and-half blend of Grenache and Syrah from the Languedoc, it’s fresh, vibrant and fruity with red berries, spice and keen acidity: the perfect vin de soif for the end of summer. £12.56 down from £13.50.

Nicola Catena is to Argentina as Marchesi Antinori is to Italy and Jean-Michel Cazes is to France and the 2019 Catena La

Consulta Malbec (5) is a beauty. From vineyards high in the Andes foothills, where bright sunny days and refreshingly cool nights lead to highly prized, deeply coloured wines of great brilliance and intensity, this is packed with heady violet aromas and deep plummy flavours. If you like Malbec, you’ll love it. You’ll love the price too; I had guessed it to be well over twenty quid. £13.95 down from £15.

The 2018 Haras de Pirque Galantas Gran Reserva Cabernet Franc (6) from part of the mighty far-flung Antinori empire (see above) in Chile was another revelation. I’ve become quite keen on Cabernet Franc of late but had no idea that it thrived quite so beautifully in the Southern Cone. This example from the Maipo Valley is spot on. With a dash of Carménère added for structure, it’s full of blackberries, blueberries and mulberries and boasts the silkiest of tannins and longest of finishes. It’s gorgeous! £23.25 down from £25.

Finally, as an end of summer add-on, we’ve one of my favourite English fizzes, the Wiston South Downs Brut NV (7) from West Sussex. An equal blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it’s made by the English winemaking legend that is Dermot Sugrue (he’s Irish actually) and is gloriously toasty, apple-y and lemony and worthy winner of Best Sparkling at the 2019 Independent English Wine Awards. What better way to toast our new King? £27 down from £30.

The wines are offered in boxes of six, with a minimum order of 12 bottles. The mixed case has 12 bottles with two each of wines 1-6. Delivery, as ever, is free.

Order today.

Written byJonathan Ray

Jonathan Ray is the Spectator's wine editor.

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