The Cape of good wines

As part of a six-month tour of the main wine-producing countries of the world, the author stopped long enough in South Africa to discover the hidden treasures of Hamilton Russell

Standing on Cap Agulhas gazing at the ocean, aware of the fact that we were on the very tip of Africa, it seemed unlikely that we would find anywhere quite as beautiful again. We had driven to this remote spot and walked through budding fynbos, the gorgeous display of nature's wild flowers unique to the Cape. And yet the drive from that windswept corner of South Africa towards Hermanus on minor roads proved to be equally spectacular.

Hermanus is synonymous with whale-watching and a high standard of living. Well-to-do South Africans, many from Cape Town, escape to second homes in this seaside resort or eventually retire here. Less apparent to the outsider is what lies only a few miles beyond the built-up area, the valley of Hemel-en-Aarde - literally Heaven and Earth - with its lush vegetation, rolling hills, and a cluster of vineyards alongside the R320 to Caledon. Hamilton Russell is one of these half dozen properties, and on first approach does not seem to offer anything out of the ordinary. No fancy restaurant to lure the hungry explorer, no extravagant entrance. On the contrary, it is rather sober and understated. But within lies a pleasant surprise.

The present owner, Anthony Hamilton Russell, took over the running of the business from his father back in 1991, cutting short a successful career in Europe in the world of finance to devote all his energy to the production of quality wines, with the intention that they should compete with the best in Europe and the New World. I met him while travelling round the Cape, and was overwhelmed by his hospitality and extraordinary attention to detail everywhere on the estate.

European eyes have not always looked kindly upon South African wines, associating them with high levels of alcohol and unsubtle fruit characteristics. Aware of this, Anthony took it upon himself to challenge this perception, making the most of the geographical position of the appellation and striving to produce leaner, less alcoholic and more balanced wines. Results soon followed. Not only have they - Anthony Hamilton Russell and winemaker Kevin Grant - specialised in the production of outstanding terroir-driven Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but Anthony himself has also set about proving that "the intrinsic qualities of Pinotage lend themselves to the making of great, age-worthy, origin-expressive wine with a uniquely South African style and personality". He feels strongly that the grape should not be blamed for the eminently forgettable wines made from it since the 1980s at the low end of the industry, with high yields and hot climate characteristics.

Anthony founded Southern Right in 1994 as a Pinotage specialist, with plantings in Walker Bay in clay-rich Bokkeveld shale-derived soils, and yields at around one kg per vine. The resulting wines have been highly rated by international critics, with 4 1/2 stars in the 2005 John Platter Wine Guide, and chosen by the editor of Decanter magazine as one of the top ten red wines in South Africa, as well as appearing in their 2005 calendar as one of the 38 most interesting wines from around the world that year.

Ashbourne, whose total production is in barrels, is the other Pinotage, started in 2001 in a ten-year quest to produce a classical and site-expressive red wine. The name comes from Anthony's grandmother's side, and the house on the label is his own home, Braemar, which he built in the valley the year he planted the first special vineyard for Ashbourne. The wine does not carry the variety on the label, as it is Anthony's wish that people should enjoy this wine without any preconceived ideas. Although the plan is to have a Pinotage driven wine, small component blending trials will be carried out in the next eight years.

As we walked into the cellar, a large table was set among the French barriques, with three places immaculately set and seven bottles of wine awaiting our verdict. We tasted the 2005 and 2004 Chardonnay, Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2006, the Southern Right Pinotage 2005, the Ashbourne 2004 and, to finish Hamilton Russell's 2004 and 2005 Pinot Noir. Anthony took us through the tasting with insightful comments, but allowed us to draw our own conclusions.

The Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc 2006 was suitably youthful and crisp, yet restrained, with citrussy characteristics on the palate, somewhere between New Zealand's more fruity style and the steely minerality of the eastern Loire.

The Southern Right Pinotage 2005, though still very young, had a definite "European" label attached to it, with notes of red berries and spice on the nose and a smooth velvety palate.

The Ashbourne Walker Bay 100% Pinotage 2001 , aged 15 months in barrel, would deserve a tasting all on its own, such is its complexity and variety of flavours and aromas. It was unlike any Pinotage I had ever tasted before, with a combination of the austerity more commonly associated with Pinot Noir - aromas of wild mushrooms and truffle - some cedary, slightly resiny oak hints, and spicy berries on the palate, with an amazingly long finish and well integrated alcohol.

Both the 2004 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were impressive, yet the ones that really bowled me over were from the following year. The 2005 Pinot Noir felt very available, showing excellent potential yet pairing well with food - we were able to put it to the test that same evening thanks to Anthony's generosity. It had beautifully balanced alcohol and acidity, without any obvious fruit on the nose yet dark and spicy, with tight, crunchy tannins and a great length. The sort of wine you'd like to put down yet cannot resist drinking straight away.

The 2005 Chardonnay was a classic of its kind, with excellent acidity, medium alcohol and body, and a wonderful aroma - less tropical and sweet than you would expect out of the New World - and a complex palate, buttery, with mineral characteristics and subdued fruit notes redolent of slightly tart pineapple.

These two and the Ashbourne defied my expectations, shattering any pre-conceived ideas I might have had prior to my trip to South Africa. The Pinotage was unlike any I'd ever tasted before, subtle, austere, full of promise. The Chardonnay was my absolute favourite, and, had I been tasting blind, I might have been forgiven for jotting down Puligny Montrachet - at least I hope so! The Pinot felt young, with a good long way ahead of it, but again promising excellent results in the future, and already showing balance despite its youthful characteristics.

After a comprehensive and lengthy visit, which included tasting some exquisite wines, I found myself reflecting on Hamilton Russell's motto, "Individuality and Expression of Origin", and came to the conclusion that it was precisely this combination that made the experience so unique. Anthony's vision, combined with his extremely high standards, ensures that the wines that come out of Hamilton Russell are truly remarkable.

UK sole Importers: Hallgartens, Dallow Road, Luton, Bedforshire.

E-mail: sales@hallgartens.co.uk