Ameer Kotecha
In praise of British beef
Beef is one of our proudest national exports. Though showcasing British beef to the world has at times had its challenges, one story raises a smile: as a result of BSE, British beef was banned in France during Lord Jay’s tenure as our ambassador in Paris. He and his wife Sylvia made a principle of serving only British ingredients at ambassadorial functions wherever possible – and, as a result, they felt they could not serve beef at all. As I recount in my forthcoming book, they did, however, have one triumph. Lord Jay recalled: 'Just as the ban was beginning to be lifted the French said that British beef could be imported to the great agricultural show at SIAL, provided that when the show was over the British beef was either burned or taken to the British Embassy. So we said, "Ah ha, here is an opportunity.”' The ambassador took the beef and put on a great lunch to which French chefs and journalists were invited. The excellence of British beef featured on the front page of Le Monde the following day.
'Les Rosbifs' the French call us in derision, and we rightly wear the jibe as a badge of honour. From Henry Fielding’s 18th century ballad 'The Roast Beef of Old England', to the shouts of 'Beef and Liberty!’ (last heard around Leicester Square by the Spectator's own Bruce Anderson after a good lunch at the Beefsteak), beef has been central to our national life for centuries. More than roast chicken, more than spring lamb, it is beef that represents the British character.
Given the assault on red meat-eating in recent years, it pays to remember that British beef is amongst the most sustainable in the world. As Ladies in Beef co-founder, the perfectly-named Jilly Greed, points out: 'British beef production boasts a carbon footprint of just less than half the global average'.
Great British Beef Week (GBBW) is now in its 11th year and runs from 23 to 30 April. A week of beef eating also provides a good opportunity to consider some of our heritage breeds – happily, the demand for local, slow-grown, grass-fed beef is growing, with customers lured by the incomparable flavour. Slow growth on grass and hay ensures heritage beef’s superior marbling which means not just great taste but ensures it bastes beautifully while cooking.
According to the Rare Breeds Society, Britain has 34 native cattle breeds, of which 14 are considered rare. If you want to swat up on differentiating your Shetland from your Highland, and your Welsh Black from your White Park, you can consult this excellent short illustrated guide from Countrylife. But while the virtues of heritage beef are increasingly recognised, the future of some breeds is far from assured. Founder of the online butcher Farmison & Co, John Pallagi, promotes the idea of 'Eat It To Save It': by rearing these breeds and getting people passionate about eating them, we can bring them firmly back to the nation's table. So I asked Farmison’s resident chef Jeff Baker to provide some suggestions for cuts and interesting breeds to try in some of our best-loved dishes:
Steak
The bavette is Jeff’s go to, or the ‘New York rib chop’ when grilling over wood. As for breed he recommends the Belted Galloway – quite small and slow growing offering juicy, succulent beef. Another great option is the Dexter – the smallest breed of cattle in Europe, often found with ample mellow, yellow fat that chefs love.
Sunday roast
Jeff recommends the wing rib, in his opinion the king of roasts. His favourite breeds are English Longhorn or Hereford. The former is the breed that made British beef great: slow growing, the beef has rich seams of marbling and fine grain, perfect for rich roasting joints. Meanwhile the Hereford’s winning quality is the neat layer of fat giving its beef succulence and hearty flavour.
Chilli con carne
Use ox cheek in winter months or else try featherblade.
Beef Wellington
Go for a dry aged centre cut fillet.
Beef casserole
Use any braising steak cut from the chuck.