Ameer Kotecha
Entente Cordiale: why French wine and British food are a perfect match
Hopping across the Strait of Dover remains something of an Olympian task. A mere 20 miles of water it may be but ten days of quarantine on return is unpalatable no matter how good the baguettes are across the Channel. Even once the rules change, it will be too late for the holiday hopes of many this summer. But it doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy a summery French wine. The good news is that French wine and British food make for a surprisingly strong match.
I am sometimes loath to recommend anything other than English and Welsh wine given the quality of what we now produce on home soil. Indeed even if you think the glories of an English sparkling white or rosé would be wasted served alongside the slab of red meat you’re cooking on the barbecue, we are now producing growing amounts of red wine in this country too.
But with our own wine now so good that even the French are buying it, we can be confident enough to enjoy a tipple of their stuff now and again too. Beaujolais wines hail from the region just north of Lyon that cannot decide whether it is a part of Burgundy or the Rhône. They are light and fruity and the reds are often best drunk slightly cool. The Gamay grape, from which Beaujolais is generally made, has great versatility and the wines generally are low in tannins and light in body so they don't easily overpower delicate food. They are in other words perfect summer drinking and pair excellently with British dishes. Here are some culinary matches to consider:
Beaujolais Blanc, Domaine Lathuilière-Gravallon Roche Noire 2017
Pair with shellfish, like crab, lobster or prawn
Zesty with subtle lemon pith aromas, it has a bright acidity and minerally notes which makes it a great match for shellfish.
Saint-Amour, Domaine De Fa 2018
Pair with mackerel and other flavoursome fish
With a little more weight and breadth due to the 2018 vintage, it works very well with a grilled mackerel — a richer, fattier fish. There are earthy aromas and slightly peppery notes that will pair well with any fish if barbecued and stuffed with herbs. Try also the Saint-Amour on the menu at Timberyard in Edinburgh, paired with the confit trout.
Beaujolais-Villages, Jean Marc Burgaud Les Vignes de Lantignié 2019Pair with charcuterie
Powerful and packed full of flavour, this is the ideal wine to highlight why Gamay can easily go hand-in-hand with richer meats. A white pepper aroma in the wine makes it a delightful companion to British charcuterie and especially a fennel salami. Try another Beaujolais-Villages in the Dominique Morel 2019 on the menu at Church Road in Barnes. Full of cherry perfume it pairs perfectly with the Jambon persillee.
Morgon, Jean Loron Château de Bellevue Climat les Charmes 2015
Pair with hogget or flavoursome lamb
This Morgon, from the outstanding 2015 vintage, is the perfect partner to hogget or lamb. The depth of red fruit flavour combined with the bright acid structure works very well. Try also the (reassuringly named) Beaujolais, Domaine Chasselay, Beaujolais is not Dead , full of plum flavours and spice. It pairs well with lamb and even better with pork. It is on the menu at St. JOHN.
Moulin-à-Vent, Château Des Jacques, Clos De Rochegrès 2014
Pair with pastry or fruit-based dessert, or fruit loaf
The Moulin-à-Vent demonstrates earthiness and forest floor characters from the additional ageing which pairs with grainy, savoury bread or pastry. Fruit in the dessert revives the fruit in the wine, allowing the hallmark cherry Gamay flavours to shine through. There are other Moulin-à-Vent on the menu at Noble Rot.
Fleurie, Henry Fessy Le Pavillon 2018
Pair with red meats or blue cheese
Fleurie is renowned for its vibrancy and freshness. Acid-driven and bright, it brings out the piquancy of blue cheese. Try also the 2020 Fleurie, Clos de la Roilette, Domaine Coudert on the menu at Kitchen W8 and pair with the ribeye of shorthorn beef.
